3D Printing Glossary: 60 Terms Every Beginner Should Know

3D printing has its own language. Slicers talk about retraction and flow rate, forums argue over Cartesian vs. CoreXY, and a failed first layer gets blamed on bed adhesion. This glossary translates all of it into plain English, with real numbers you can use at your printer today.

Quick Takeaways

  • 60 terms are grouped by topic: technologies, hardware, materials, slicing, print problems, and post-processing.
  • Start with the Core Concepts and Slicer Settings sections. They fix most beginner mistakes.
  • Most FDM prints use a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, and 15-20% infill.
  • The comparison tables show typical temperatures and technology trade-offs at a glance.
Category Terms Covered Why It Matters
Technologies 6 Choose the right printer type
Hardware 14 Understand what you are buying or fixing
Materials 10 Pick the right filament or resin
Slicing & Settings 16 Control print quality and speed
Problems & Fixes 8 Diagnose failures fast
Post-Processing 6 Finish parts professionally

Part 1: Core Technologies

1. Additive Manufacturing (AM)

The industrial term for 3D printing. Material is added layer by layer, unlike subtractive manufacturing (CNC milling), which cuts material away.

2. FDM / FFF

Fused Deposition Modeling (also called Fused Filament Fabrication) melts plastic filament and extrudes it through a nozzle. It is the most common and cheapest technology for beginners.

3. SLA

Stereolithography cures liquid photopolymer resin with a UV laser. It delivers fine detail with layer heights as low as 0.025 mm.

4. MSLA / LCD / DLP

Resin printers that cure a whole layer at once using an LCD screen or projector. MSLA machines are the budget-friendly standard for miniatures and dental models.

5. SLS

Selective Laser Sintering fuses nylon powder with a laser. It needs no support structures, because unsintered powder holds the part in place.

6. Rapid Prototyping

Quickly producing physical models to test fit, form, or function. 3D printing turned a weeks-long process into an overnight one.

Technology Comparison

Technology Typical Layer Height Detail Cost Best For
FDM 0.1-0.3 mm Medium $ Functional parts, prototypes
MSLA (Resin) 0.025-0.1 mm Very high $$ Miniatures, jewelry, dental
SLS 0.1 mm High $$$$ Nylon production parts

Part 2: Hardware Terms

7. Extruder

The mechanism that grips and pushes filament toward the hotend.

8. Direct Drive vs. Bowden

Direct drive mounts the extruder motor on the toolhead. It handles flexible filament well. Bowden mounts it on the frame and pushes filament through a tube, which reduces moving weight and allows faster travel.

9. Hotend

The heated assembly that melts filament. It includes the heater block, heat break, and nozzle.

10. Nozzle

The brass, hardened steel, or ruby tip where plastic exits. The standard diameter is 0.4 mm. Use hardened steel for abrasive filaments like carbon fiber or glow-in-the-dark.

11. Heat Break

A thin metal tube that separates the hot and cold zones of the hotend. Poor cooling here causes heat creep and clogs.

12. Print Bed (Build Plate)

The surface where the part is printed. Common types: PEI spring steel, glass, and textured PEI.

13. Heated Bed

A bed that keeps the first layers warm to prevent warping. Typical settings are 60 °C for PLA and 100-110 °C for ABS.

14. Enclosure

A chamber that traps heat for materials like ABS and ASA. It also contains fumes and blocks drafts.

15. Cartesian

The classic printer layout. The bed moves on the Y axis, and the toolhead moves on X and Z.

16. CoreXY

A layout where the bed moves only in Z, and two motors move the toolhead in X and Y. Moving mass is low, which allows speeds of 300+ mm/s.

17. Delta

Three arms move the nozzle in a circular build volume. Delta printers are fast and tall but harder to calibrate.

18. Stepper Motor

The motor that moves each axis in precise increments. Most printers use NEMA 17 motors.

19. Firmware

The software running on your printer’s mainboard. The main options are Marlin, Klipper, and RepRapFirmware.

20. Auto Bed Leveling (ABL)

A probe maps the bed surface and compensates for tilt in software. Common probes include BLTouch, CR Touch, and inductive sensors.

Cartesian vs. CoreXY vs. Delta

Layout Speed Complexity Typical Price Notes
Cartesian (bed slinger) Moderate Low $ Easiest to repair
CoreXY High Medium $$ Best all-rounder for speed
Delta High High $$ Tall, round build volumes

Part 3: Material Terms

21. Filament

Plastic wire fed into an FDM printer. The standard diameters are 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm.

22. PLA

Polylactic acid is the beginner-friendly standard. It prints at 190-220 °C, rarely warps, and smells mild. It softens near 60 °C.

23. PETG

A strong, slightly flexible filament with good chemical resistance. It prints at 230-250 °C and tends to string.

24. ABS

A tough, heat-resistant plastic that prints at 230-260 °C. It warps easily and releases fumes, so use an enclosure and ventilation.

25. ASA

Similar to ABS, with better UV resistance. It is ideal for outdoor parts.

26. TPU

A flexible, rubber-like filament measured in Shore hardness (usually 95A). Print slowly, at 20-30 mm/s.

27. Nylon (PA)

Strong, wear-resistant, and hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). It must be dried before printing.

28. Composite Filament

Base plastic blended with carbon fiber, glass fiber, or wood. It adds stiffness or aesthetics but wears soft nozzles.

29. Photopolymer Resin

Liquid plastic that cures under UV light. It is toxic in liquid form, so always wear nitrile gloves.

30. Hygroscopic

A material’s tendency to absorb moisture from the air. Wet filament causes popping, bubbles, and weak parts. Dry it at 45-65 °C for 4-6 hours in a filament dryer.

Material Comparison

Material Nozzle Temp Bed Temp Strength Difficulty Best Use
PLA 190-220 °C 50-60 °C Medium Easy Models, prototypes
PETG 230-250 °C 70-85 °C High Easy-Medium Functional parts
ABS 230-260 °C 95-110 °C High Hard Heat-resistant parts
TPU 210-230 °C 30-60 °C Flexible Medium Gaskets, phone cases

Part 4: Slicing & Settings Terms

31. Slicer

Software that converts a 3D model into printer instructions. Popular options: Cura, PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, and Bambu Studio.

32. G-code

The text-based instruction language printers read. Each line is a command for movement, temperature, or extrusion.

M104 S210      ; Set nozzle to 210 °C (no wait)
M140 S60       ; Set bed to 60 °C (no wait)
M109 S210      ; Wait for nozzle to reach 210 °C
M190 S60       ; Wait for bed to reach 60 °C
G28            ; Home all axes
G1 X50 Y50 F3000 ; Move to X50 Y50 at 3000 mm/min

33. STL

The most common 3D model file format. It describes surface geometry as triangles and carries no color or unit data.

34. 3MF

A modern format that stores geometry, colors, and slicer settings in one file.

35. Layer Height

The thickness of each printed layer. Smaller layers give smoother surfaces but longer prints. The standard is 0.2 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle.

36. First Layer Height

The thickness of the initial layer, often set slightly higher (0.2-0.28 mm) for stronger adhesion.

37. Infill

The internal structure that fills a part. 15-20% suits display pieces, and 40-60% suits load-bearing parts.

38. Infill Pattern

The internal geometry. Grid and gyroid offer balanced strength, lines print fast, and cubic is good for general use.

39. Perimeters (Walls)

The outer shell loops. Wall count has more impact on strength than infill. Use 3-4 walls for functional parts.

40. Top/Bottom Layers

Solid layers that close the part’s surfaces. Use 4-5 top layers to avoid gaps.

41. Print Speed

How fast the nozzle moves while extruding. Typical speeds run 40-60 mm/s on standard printers and 200-500 mm/s on high-speed machines.

42. Retraction

The extruder pulls filament back slightly before travel moves to prevent stringing. Typical settings: 0.5-1 mm for direct drive and 4-6 mm for Bowden.

43. Flow Rate (Extrusion Multiplier)

A percentage that scales how much plastic is extruded. Calibrate it to fix over- or under-extrusion.

44. Supports

Temporary structures that hold up overhangs steeper than about 45-60°. Tree supports use less material and remove more easily.

45. Brim, Skirt, and Raft

A skirt primes the nozzle and doesn’t touch the part. A brim is a flat ring that increases bed contact. A raft is a full base layer that sits under the part.

46. Seam

The visible line where each perimeter loop starts and ends. Place it at a rear corner to hide it.

Part 5: Problems & Fixes

47. Bed Adhesion

How well the first layer sticks. Clean the plate with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and lower the nozzle gap slightly.

48. Warping

Corners lift as plastic cools and shrinks. Fix it with a heated bed, an enclosure, a brim, and no drafts.

49. Stringing

Thin plastic wisps between parts. Lower the nozzle temperature by 5-10 °C, increase retraction, and dry the filament.

50. Elephant’s Foot

The first layers bulge outward. Lower the bed temperature by 5 °C or raise the Z offset slightly.

51. Layer Shifting

Layers misalign horizontally. Check belt tension, loose pulleys, and print speed.

52. Under-Extrusion

Gaps or weak layers from too little plastic. Check for partial clogs, worn extruder gears, and wet filament.

53. Clog

Blocked flow in the hotend. Perform a cold pull: heat to 220 °C, cool to about 90 °C, then pull the filament out.

54. Z-Banding / Ghosting

Repeating ripples on the surface. Z-banding comes from the Z axis, and ghosting comes from vibration. Input shaping and tighter hardware help.

Quick Troubleshooting Table

Symptom Most Likely Cause Fast Fix
Strings between parts Wet filament, high temperature Dry filament, lower temp by 5-10 °C
Corners lifting Cooling too fast Add brim, use enclosure
First layer won’t stick Dirty bed, bad Z offset Clean with IPA, re-level
Gaps in walls Under-extrusion Check flow rate and clogs

Klipper Quick Command: Z Offset Adjustment

Klipper users can tune the first layer live while printing:

SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.02 MOVE=1

This lowers the nozzle by 0.02 mm during a print. Save the result with Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE and then SAVE_CONFIG.

Part 6: Post-Processing Terms

55. Support Removal

Cutting or snapping off supports with flush cutters or pliers.

56. Sanding

Smoothing surfaces with progressively finer grit, typically from 120 to 400+.

57. Annealing

Heating a part below its melting point to increase crystallinity and strength. It works well for PLA but can shrink the part by 1-3%.

58. Vapor Smoothing

Exposing ABS or ASA to acetone vapor to melt the surface into a glossy finish. Do this only in a ventilated area.

59. Resin Washing and Curing

Resin parts are rinsed in isopropyl alcohol and then cured under UV light for 2-10 minutes.

60. Heat-Set Inserts

Threaded brass inserts pressed into printed holes with a soldering iron. They create durable threads for repeated assembly.

Real-World Use Cases for These Terms

Functional enclosure for electronics. Use PETG, 4 walls, 30% infill, and a 0.2 mm layer height. Add heat-set inserts for screw points so threads survive repeated opening.

Tabletop miniatures. Choose MSLA resin, a 0.05 mm layer height, and tree-style supports. Wash in IPA and cure under UV.

Outdoor garden clips. Print in ASA for UV resistance, in an enclosure to prevent warping.

Flexible phone bumper. Print TPU 95A at slow speeds with a direct drive extruder for reliable feeding.

Automotive prototyping. Engineers print jigs, brackets, and fit-check parts in nylon composites or ABS to test geometry before committing to tooling. This is rapid prototyping in practice.

FAQ

What are the most important 3D printing terms for beginners?

Start with FDM, slicer, G-code, layer height, infill, supports, and bed adhesion. These govern most print results.

What is the difference between FDM and resin printing?

FDM melts plastic filament and is cheaper, with sturdier parts. Resin printing cures liquid resin with UV light and delivers far finer detail, but it requires washing, curing, and careful chemical handling.

What does G-code do in 3D printing?

G-code is the instruction set a slicer generates. It tells the printer where to move, how fast, how hot to heat, and how much filament to extrude.

What layer height should a beginner use?

Use 0.2 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle. It balances print time, strength, and surface quality. Drop to 0.12 mm for finer detail.

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